Delicate golden threads, as thin as hair, are skill fully intertwined by the hands of those who master this art like no one else. It would hardly be guessed that the origin of this golden thread dates back to solid gold bars. This could only be the work of true masters, true filigree masters!
Portugal has a long tradition in the art of gold-smithing. In ancient times, the North of Portugal was abundant in gold and skilled talent to work it. It was in the mountains of Pias and Banja that the Roman people discovered gold mines, and thus, thanks to trade routes, filigree began to cause a sensation. The exact origin of this technique is not known, but what is known is that various specimens have been found all over the world. In Portugal, history has also uncovered pieces dating back to ancient times, between 2500 to 2000 BC.
In the resilient workshops, where Portuguese filigree is still intertwined, there is a pride, or as the people of Minho say, a "Chieira," in doing everything by hand and with great patience. Machines may try to rival in the production of filigree, but this art maintains a strong bond with craftsmanship.
The 25 steps necessary to create a Heart of Viana are revealed to be slow and meticulous, resulting in the production of only one specimen per day. Proudly intertwined threads, which at first glance are mistaken for golden hair, are skillfully woven to shape the symbol of the city of Viana do Castelo. It was Queen D. Maria I who ordered the execution of the first one, at the end of the 18th century, when her firstborn son was born. This symbol carries a profound religious connotation, representing the Sacred Heart of Jesus, where we can glimpse, at the top, the burning flames of the earth and the warmth of love.
The tradition of wearing this symbol on the chest began in Viana do Castelo. However, filigree is meticulously crafted in neighbouring lands, namely in Póvoa do Lanhoso and Gondomar.
It is at the D'Agonia pilgrimage that the maidens and Brides of Viana do Castelo parade their pieces of golden filigree, in an attempt to attract the attention of the boys. Impressive pendants in the shape of a Heart of Viana, or small ones with the shape of a locket, queen earrings, or the traditional spindle earrings, long bead necklaces, and others shorter - everything is worth displaying the wealth of Portuguese filigree!
Today, this art takes on various forms, from delicate pieces decorated with religious motifs to creations with a polished and contemporary design. Filigree, over time, transcends its festive origins, becoming an artistic expression that combines tradition and modernity.
Filigree has gained a new life in the hands of designers, who recreate its essence and free it from the religious concept. brands that embarked on the path of modernity, without forgetting the roots of tradition, betting on a harmonious fusion between both concepts.
Some brands have the potential of this Portuguese tradition and have contributed to making this corner of Europe known to other countries. Thus, filigree, once linked to religious meanings, now flourishes as a modern artistic expression, showing the world the beauty and skill of Portuguese filigree masters. The history of filigree continues to unfold, between tradition and innovation, like a narrative that transcends borders and enchants admirers all over the world.